Chef Michael Broughton is embracing the cooler months with a winter menu brimming with elegant simplicity. The starters set the bar high from the get-go. A favourite is the tomato and goat’s cheese tart, where smoked tomato adds depth and richness to a dish that arrives like a happy echo of bright summer days. On each plate the delicate saucing is as much a highlight as the confit pork belly, venison loin or hand-rolled linguine. On my visit, a generous fillet of perfectly cooked kabeljou – cooked sous-vide, then grilled – was made memorable by the tiny sea of ciboulettes (chives). Michael suspects it was this classic French sauce that sent him down the butter-laden path to becoming a master saucier. The linefish and beef fillet are coupled with smoked potato and truffle sauce. Desserts are no afterthought here, but heed my advice: Look past the delicate apple mille-feuille with miso caramel, ignore the siren song of the dark chocolate bar, and simply order the roasted pineapple with tipsy cake. Kleine Zalze wine estate, Stellenbosch; 021-880-8167; kleinezalze.co.za/terroir.
By Richard Holmes