From vineyard location to harvest timing, South African winemakers are taking a closer look at what makes great Merlot.
Merlot has something of an image problem.
Often thought of as an easy-drinking, fruit-forward red wine, the variety doesn’t always get the same attention as Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinotage. But look a little closer and there is far more to Merlot than its approachable reputation suggests.
In South Africa, Merlot accounts for around 6% of total wine grape plantings and 13% of red grape varieties, with approximately 6.5 million litres sold annually, according to South African Wine Industry Information & Systems. And while it might not always be the first red wine that comes to mind when talking about premium South African wine, winemakers are increasingly showing just what the variety can do.
“Merlot is often underestimated, yet some of the world’s most celebrated wines are built around it,” says Elunda Basson, Cellarmaster at Steenberg Vineyards. “A greater focus on provenance and vineyard expression is revealing its complexity, structure and ageing potential.”
It starts with the vineyard
When it comes to making a great Merlot, where the grapes are grown matters.
The variety is particularly sensitive to its surroundings. A site that is too cool can make it difficult for the grapes to reach full ripeness, while excessive warmth can strip away the freshness that gives Merlot its balance.
“The best examples achieve a careful balance between the two,” says Basson.
It is a philosophy that is becoming increasingly important in wine, where factors such as climate, soil, exposure and altitude all contribute to a wine’s character.
At Steenberg, in Constantia, this starts with carefully selected east-facing vineyard blocks. The area’s maritime climate helps moderate temperatures, while the morning sun encourages slow and even ripening. The result is grapes that can develop flavour, colour and tannin without losing their freshness.
The vineyard sites currently used for Merlot are the result of years of refinement, with planting decisions focused on blocks that consistently produce fruit with good flavour development, mature tannins and balance.
But even the right piece of land needs plenty of attention.
Great Merlot is made through hundreds of small decisions
“Great Merlot is built through hundreds of decisions throughout the growing season,” says viticulturist Vlok Hanekom.
“Our role in the vineyard isn’t simply to grow grapes. It’s to create the foundation for the style of wine we want to make.”
That means plenty of careful work long before the grapes make their way into the cellar.
Spur pruning helps control crop levels, while canopy management and selective leaf removal improve airflow and sunlight exposure around the grapes. Green harvesting, meanwhile, reduces the number of grape bunches on the vines, giving the remaining fruit more opportunity to develop concentration and consistency.
For Merlot, harvest timing is particularly important. Rather than relying on sugar levels alone, the team looks at flavour, acidity and tannin maturity to determine when the grapes are ready.
“We’re looking for complete physiological ripeness, where fruit, tannins and acidity are in balance. That’s what ultimately determines quality,” says Hanekom.
It is a careful balancing act – and one that requires the vineyard and cellar teams to work closely together throughout the season.
“Every vineyard decision has consequences in the cellar,” says Basson. “Vlok and I work towards the same goal. The vineyard creates the potential; the cellar preserves and refines it.”
Letting the fruit do the talking
Once the grapes reach the cellar, the aim is to build on what has already been created in the vineyard, rather than cover it up.
At Steenberg, a partial saignée is used to increase the ratio of grape skins to juice, helping build colour, flavour concentration and tannin structure. The wine is then matured for an average of 24 months in third-fill and older French oak barrels.
The oak adds another layer of complexity, but the intention is not to overwhelm the fruit.
“At Steenberg, structure is never achieved at the expense of freshness,” says Basson. “Every cellar decision protects fruit purity and acidity while building depth, texture and longevity.”
The finished Merlot brings together dark berry fruit, plum and subtle floral notes with hints of cedar and spice. It is generous without feeling heavy, with refined tannins, bright acidity and a long, balanced finish.
A case for South African Merlot
For Hanekom, the growing interest in premium Merlot is also part of a bigger conversation about what South African vineyards can produce.
“South Africa has all the ingredients to produce world-class Merlot,” he says. “Success comes down to matching the variety to the right sites and managing it with precision. As viticulture evolves, so too does our understanding of what Merlot can achieve.”
Constantia is a particularly interesting example. Its maritime climate allows for slow, even ripening, giving flavour development and tannin maturity time to progress together while retaining the freshness that is so important in a balanced red wine.
And the approach is already receiving international attention. Steenberg Merlot was awarded a Platinum Medal at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards and named Merlot of the Year at the 2026 London Wine Competition.
For Steenberg, though, the awards are less important than what happens long before a bottle reaches the shelf.
“They are the outcome,” says Hanekom. “The real story begins in the vineyard. When site, viticulture and winemaking are aligned, Merlot can achieve remarkable complexity, balance and ageing potential.”
ALSO SEE: Cheesy baby marrow “meatballs” with orzo and spicy red wine sauce
Cheesy baby marrow “meatballs” with orzo and spicy red wine sauce
